Haute couture: its origins

Let's focus on the origins of Haute Couture.

First, a look back at the life of the woman who was rightly called the "Minister of Fashion".

Rose Bertin, from an ordinary provincial family, became Marie-Antoinette's seamstress in 1774. Although nothing predestined her for a life at the court of France, Rose had ambition, and her ambition became more pronounced in Paris.

Thanks to a certain talent and incorruptible perfectionism, she was employed in very famous fashion houses in the capital, before opening her own store, "Au Grand Mogol", on October 24, 1773, rue Saint Honoré in Paris.

As a Parisian fashion merchant, she invents, imagines, sometimes makes up, and then has her team of seamstresses to carry out her projects. She also becomes a formidable trader and keeps her accounts very well.

"Au Grand Mogol" quickly acquired a fine foreign clientele. The English aristocrats, during their trip to the capital, made an obligatory visit to Mademoiselle Bertin. Many royal personalities do not hesitate to order their costumes there. For example : Sophie Madeleine of Sweden, the Queen of Spain or the Infanta of Portugal among her most illustrious clients.

If Rose Bertin has become a seamstress who lasted over time, it is mainly thanks to her best buyer, Marie-Antoinette. Introduced by the Duchess of Chartres, she immediately seduced the new sovereign with her creations. Would Marie-Antoinette's famous passion for fashion come directly from Rose? This seems to be obvious. If history says that the queen was launching the trends, it was actually Miss Bertin who instigated them. Indeed, she proposed the novelties, the queen adopts them, and from then, the court too. Rose Bertin was the first to start liberating the female body while decorating her creations with embroideries, lace and rose petals.

Thanks to her enormous influence in fashion at the court of Louis XVI, her unparalleled talent for fashion and innovation, with a true company run with an iron fist, Rose Bertin has not only made history, but can also be considered, alongside Charles Frederick Worth, as a pioneer in Haute Couture.

Charles Frederick Worth, the "father of haute couture", one of the founders of Parisian haute couture.

The origin of Haute Couture is attributed to Charles Frederick Worth, French designer from Britain, who created in 1858 at 7 rue de la Paix in Paris the first true Maison de Couture. Nothing predestined this Englishman (1825-1895) to give his name to the first in the history of Haute Couture. In 1846, he arrived in France in the hope of living his dream of sewing, a profession reserved for women. The success was almost immediate, the elegant wealthy women queued up on the Great Staircase. From the very beginning, women have played a key role in its reputation. Starting with Marie-Augustine Vernet, whom he married in 1851. She was his best ambassador, displaying his creations in shimmering colours to everyone: during her walks in the Bois de Boulogne, on the occasion of numerous balls at the court, evenings at the theatre...

Worth even went so far as to create a maternity collection during his wife's pregnancy.

In 1858, he created with the Swedish Otto Boberg, the company Worth et Boberg, specialized in the trade of silk, lace, cashmere, furs, dresses and coats for women.

The shop was a resounding success thanks to Pauline de Mitternich, wife of the Austrian ambassador to Paris. The latter wears one of her creations during a ball given by Empress Eugénie. He had the idea of presenting his creations to his clients - first of all, the Princess of Metternich and Empress Eugenie - by having them worn by flesh and blood models. The fashion show was born.

In the wake of Empress Eugénie, he became the master of Haute Couture. Eugénie was ordering all her outfits from Worth, from court dresses, right down to elaborate street clothes and “masquerade” costumes. This represented a great deal of work for the designer because Eugenie, while on public duty, changed gowns several times per day. The young woman immediately spotted the dress and met Worth the next day. From then on, on ballroom nights, the ladies of the court jostle down the stairs of rue de la Paix to have the privilege of having a dress designed by Charles.

It was the birth of the fashion designer, Haute Couture became a luxury industry, and clothing works of art.

- Lana

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